Monday, March 23, 2009
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Seoul, South Korea
It turns out the you actually go though a lock to get raised into Inchon Harbor which is about 10 miles from downtown Seoul.
With over 10 million Seoul is South Korea’s largest city. This city was completely destroyed in the Korean War but aggressive economic policy and sacrifice have completely rebuilt the city. Remember this nation has no natural resources, so imports raw materials, manufactures, and exports to create value. Education and intellectual added value are what make Korea today. They are a heads down, get it done type nation. English is the strong second language and the school children engage you on the street with “Where are you from………”. There are no bargains to be found and Seoul ranks as the third most expensive city in the world and first in Asia.
In Seoul we visit the Deoksu Palace, see the Blue House, Korea’s equivalent to the US’s White House and visit The New National Museum of Korea with over 4,500 exhibits detailing Korea’s historic and cultural heritage. Lunch at a local restaurant for local food which is similar to Chinese but with hots. In the afternoon we visit a local street market Namdaemun Market and I do mean local, but large.
Sunday March 22nd
Sea Day
The last port of call is Beijing. We are staying only two days and it should be four or five after coming this distance but we have been on the road for seven weeks.
Shanghai, China
Shanghai was a small fishing village that became China’s largest city by the mid 1800s. It was one of the first concession areas opened after the Opium Wars, allowing the British, French, and Americans to live in special territorial zones without being under Chinese laws. It became China’s first full fledged Special Economic Zones with many financial institutions, cars and large buildings. Shanghai also became the by word for exploitation and vice, with countless opium dens, gambling joints and brothels. In 1949 the Communists put their foot down and began eradicating slums, rehabilitating hundred of thousands of opium addicts and stamping out child and slave labor.
By 1990 the wheel had come full circle for Shanghai, with foreign investment once again welcome and by the mid 1990s half the worlds high-rise cranes were looming over Shanghai. On the opposite side of the river a whole new Shanghai is being created. It is hard to imagine the scale of the construction coupled with other industrial activities. We passed 20 ship yards with 4 to 8 ships under construction and three large container ports with 12 to 20 cranes.
We visited the old market surrounding the 16th-centry Yu Yuan Gardens, the Jade Buddha Temple, and enjoyed a traditional Chinese-style lunch. These people eat very healthily and you can see it in the height of the slim younger generation. The big issue here is pollution and while we were in town there was a lot. Our final stop of the day was the Children’s Palace, a comprehensive, free, after-school educational facility for gifted children to develop their skills in music, art, dance, painting and computer technology. The talent level is unreal!
The next day we visited the unique 1,500-foot, Oriental Pearl TV Tower in the new city and the Magnetic Levitation Train (Maglev) which goes from the new city to the new airport at a top speed of 260 miles per hour. This was an amazing ride and real eye opener when the opposite direction train passed.
Next stop Seoul, Korea.
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Saint Patty’s Day at Sea
Bridge lesson, workout, and a big party to celebrate the Green.
Far from being a saint, St. Patrick was a pagan until age 16. After 6 years as a slave to Irish marauders he escaped and converted to Christianity. He trained under St Germain. He had great success winning converts and setting up monasteries across Ireland. And in fact setup the Celtic Druids. Patrick retired to County Down and died on March 17th in AD 461. The ST Patrick’s Day custom came to America in 1737. That was the first year St Patrick’s Day was publicly celebrated in Boston.
Nagasaki Japan
Best known as the site of the second atomic bomb on August 9, 1945 at 11:02 a.m. after Hiroshima two days earlier.
This event speaks for itself. Nagasaki was not the primary target that day but the secondary target due to poor weather. The B-29 bomber “Bock’s Car” was running low on fuel and about to abort when the cloud cover opened and there was the target. “Fat Boy” was dropped, with the equivalent of 44,000 tons of TNT and killed 150,000 people. 75,000 instantaneously and 75,000 over the next 5 years. We visited the Peace Park, Atomic Bomb Museum and the Atomic Bomb Hypocenter.
Today the city has been completely rebuilt and radiation measurements stopped in 1976. It is a modern industrial city of 470,000 with a major ship building operation.
Historically, Nagasaki is noted as the only trade port open to foreigner after the expulsion from Japan of all foreign Christians in the mid-17th century. Only the Dutch and Chinese were allowed access to trade with Japan via Nagasaki. This policy was ended in 1853 following the arrival of Commodore Perry’s “black ships” after more than 200 years of trade prohibition. We visited the house of the most famous trader Thomas Blake Glover 1838 to 1911. He was noted for the introduction of many western industries to Japan and garnering the profits that resulted from these activities.
Two Very BAD Days at Sea
We are en route to Kagoshima Japan but run into storm force conditions with 60 knot head winds. Remember hurricane is 73 mph. After 12 hour the sea start to build to 6 to 7 meters off the port bow. This makes for very few people in the dinning room and an interesting ride even on a big ship. It does abate but has killed our speed. This forces us to skip Kagoshima and go directly to Nagasaki Japan .
Taipei, Taiwan
This is a very different place, orderly, well educated and clean.
Taiwanese pride themselves on their, dislike of the Chinese Communists and friendliness with the United States. A short history…..as a settlement for losing the First Sino-Japanese War, China ceded the island of Taiwan to the Empire of Japan in 1895. Taipei was renamed Taihoku and become the center of Japanese Colonial Government. Much of the architecture of Taipei dates from the Japanese rule. Upon the Japanese defeat in the Pacific War and surrender in 1945 Taiwan was taken over by Chinese Nationalist Party troops.
We are actually at the port of Keelung about 20 minute ride from Taipei. Today we visited Chiang Kai-shek Memorial, Dianji Temple and The National Palace Museum. With thousands of years of Chinese art and history on display the museum is the highlight of the day. It has a collection of over 600,000 items taken from China when the Nationalist Government of Chiang Kai-shek was force to flee the mainland by Mao’s Communists in 1949. Today it is a democratic republic form of government.
Sea Day
About m/v Nautica
Today is a sea day as we are cruising to Taipei, Taiwan a distance of about 300 miles.
s/v Nautica is 396’ long and has a beam of 83’. She is powered by 4 Warteila V12 diesels that produce a cruising speed of 18 knots. There is a crew of 396 serving 684 passengers. We currently have only about 450 passengers on board. She was launched in 2000, refitted in 2007 and is the last of 3 identical sister ships built for Renaissance Cruise Line. Unfortunately 9/11 forced Renaissance into bankruptcy. It was reborn as Oceania Cruise Line, marketing longer duration cruises, and remote ports to the higher end cruisers, age 55 to 75.
Food is a big deal! There are two five Star restaurants, Toscana and Polo Grill, a five star Grand Dinning Room and two casual dinning restaurants, Tapas on the Terrace and The Terrace CafĂ©. Don’t try to count calories…………..because I guarantee the food quality is unbelievable. I cannot spend enough time at the Fitness Center with my personal trainer to lose weight. It was a lucky break to get Montezuma’s Revenge. The ship has it’s own G3 cell phone site and I cannot wait to see my AT&T bill when I get home. There is wireless but the speed is very slow and useless on the send side for email.
Bridge the game on this cruise with a super instructor and half the passengers playing. I now understand the game, you know……. Stayman, Overcalls, Slams etc but still need the next lessons or two to be perfect. I wish!
Hong Kong, China
Hong Kong, Kowloon and the New Territories were returned to China by the British at the end of a 99 year lease, in 1997. The origin of the lease is interesting to note. The British conducted a very profitable opium trade for tea and silk from 1773 to 1839 when the emperor banned the drug trade and expelled the British. In 1841 a series of conflicts followed, with the British backed by the French, Russian, and American interests. A combined British and French force invaded China in 1859, forcing the Chinese to agree to the Convention of Peking. It conceded Hong Kong Island, the Kowloon Peninsula and nearby Stonecutters Island to the British. In 1898 the British also gained a 99 year lease on the New Territories which further protected their interests. The agreement allows Hong Kong to maintain its pre-1997 social, economic and legal systems for at least 50 years after 1997. China’s official policy is “one country, two systems”.
Day one is an orientation, with a trip up Victory Peak for a spectacular view of the harbor and city. We then go to Aberdeen for sampan ride to see the floating fishing village and end with a visit to a gem factory. It was compete with a discount showroom and Ann did not hold back. Day two is a visit to the Central District to shop, back to the ship for lunch. In the afternoon we do a harbor tour by boat but jump ship on the Kowloon side at the Star Ferry Pier. We walk to the elegant Peninsula Hotel and down the Nathan Road, Kowloon’s dense and busy shopping street, from the famous Kansu Street Jade Market to Lady’s Market. This is a distance of about two miles of dense humanity and the most “branded” shopping I have ever seen, no bargains. Every major brand in the world has a store, from Rolex to Timberland. The selection was over the top, but as I said no deals. The only opportunity was, discount, custom tailors and 23 of them approached me………….. I must have been the worst dressed guy on Nathan Street. We ended up at the Continental Hotel bar, over looking the harbor at night fall. We saw a fantastic light show with colored lasers on the skyscrapers surrounding the harbor. On day three we grab a taxi (my mandarin is becoming pretty good by now………ha, ha……. each word can have 5 or more unrelated meanings, depending the tone) and go value shopping at Stanley Market.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Hong Kong, China
Hong Kong is one of the most active ports in Asia, although I noted that the three out bound container ships we passed on the way into the harbor were less than half full. This is a three day stop which includes Kowloon, the New Territories and Macau, the gaming capital of the world. At present Hong Kong has the world’s biggest skyline with a total of 7,681 skyscrapers. Four of the top 15 tallest skyscrapers are in Hong Kong. The population is about 7 million. The cost of living is among the highest in the world. A three bedroom apartment is $18,000 a month. Thus, about 30% of the population lives in highly subsidized housing of 100 to 400 square foot apartments. There are hundreds of these 30 to 50 story apartment buildings, some are even walk ups.
Monday, March 9, 2009


Saturday March 7th
Halong Bay and Hanoi
Toady we cruised into Halong Bay situated in North Vietnam in the gulf of Tonkin. The bay consists of a dense cluster of 1,969 monolithic limestone islands that rise spectacularly from the ocean, each topped with thick jungle vegetation. Several island are hollow with enormous caves. The bay is a UNESCO World Heritage site. This is truly a beautiful 15 mile passage in these peeks.
Woops, a bad day at sea……………………earlier this AM a large barge sank, totally blocking the main channel to Hanoi. A bad day at sea for that captain. Nautica drops her anchor and after consultation with Chief Harbor Pilot there is no way around or over it safely, so we sail for Hong Kong.


Friday March 6th
Da Nang, Vietnam
Da Nang is a beautiful city with great beaches and new hotels under construction. The French influence is present like Saigon but the pace is much slower. We visited China Beach, Marble Mountain and village with it’s working sculptures, the city market and the Silk Embroiders creating art on silk canvass. Da Nang is truly a beautiful city.
Thursday March 5th
Sea Day
We are sailing in the South China Sea about 450 miles to Da Nang. The US presence in Vietnam seems to be viewed historically as a more positive event in a long series of conflicts. After 100 years of French occupation with rape, pillage, poor treatment and poverty, the Vietnamese say they love the US. Life is truly relative!


Wednesday March 4nd
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam
Today is a short walking tour of Saigon before Nautica sails at 3pm. This once again the city of a million motor bikes, which you play dodge ball with to cross the streets. We visit the Rex Hotel, City Museum and of course the shopping area. We are becoming professional shoppers. The values are unreal with pricing on high end clothing 10% of the US. Ann tells me the silks are particularly good. And Hong Kong is still to come! Perhaps the Dow will recover by the time the credit card bills arrive.
Woops………it was Ann’s birthday today and I was the only family member to remember. I am sure you have frozen the cake for her return but I want the champion for taking grief.
Sunday, March 8, 2009


Tuesday March 3nd
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam
Ho Chi Minh City is still called Saigon by the local people. It has a population of about one million and is a very dense city with no traffic lights and dense motor bike traffic. We visited the War Museum and the Reunification Palace on our way to the countryside. The Palace was a gift to Vietnam from President Kennedy. It became a symbol of the CV victory in 1976 with the picture of a tank driving down the main gates to the Palace. The Cu Tunnels 25 miles north of Saigon and adjacent to the Saigon River. It was a network of 155 miles of tunnels, complete with hospitals and housing for the VC during the war.
Friday, March 6, 2009


Monday March 2nd
Sea Day
We are sailing to Vietnam which is roughly the size of New Mexico with a population of seventy-seven million. Our first port of call is Ho Chi Minh City. The harbor entrance is via the Mekong River delta. We wind our way 26 miles though a delta channel to get to the busy port.


Sunday March 1st
Ko Samui Island, Thailand
This was the “Back-packer” paradise ten years ago, but now with the addition of, a major highway circling the island and large airport it is a major Asia destination. The population is 47,000 and it lives on a successful tourist industry, as well the export of coconut and rubber. The construction of high speed internet to support tourism has made it practicable for IT-based enterprises, which is beginning to provide a certain degree of economic diversity. We visit the “Golden Buddha Statue” at Wat Phra Yai Temple, Island Safari Elephant Camp, a coconut plantation, where dexterous monkeys plucking ripe coconuts from treetops entertained us and an exclusive beach Chaweng. At Monkey University we learned that the average man can pick 300 coconuts a day, the monkey……………700.


Saturday February 28th
Bangkok, Thailand
Bangkok’s official population is 7 million but the real metropolitan area is 15 to 20 million. It has long been the gateway to Asia. Thailand is the only country in SE Aria that has never been occupied by colonial power, yet it is the most westernized. The average wages is about $800 per month. The Kings have been educated in the UK for four generations, usually at Oxford University. The result is a modern country with a based on trade economy. Toady we visited the Teak Palace and took a cooking class at a Thai restaurant, followed by lunch. The food is excellent, light seasoned and natural ingredients. We depart Bangkok at mid afternoon for an over night sail to the Thai island of Ko Samui about 140 miles.
Monday, March 2, 2009

Friday 27th February
This a travel day back to Bangkok to start the third phase of our adventure. We board m/v Nautica for a four week sail up the coast of Asia to Beijing China.
Somalia Pirates Attack m/v Nautica
You may remember the pirates of Somalia that attacked the cruise ship last summer????? There was gun fire, high speed chase and quick turns and the escape to out run the raiders. That was m/v Nautica. The untold story is a little different! This is from a fellow passenger who was on board for the attack. The real story goes like this…………… gun fire yes, high speed chase yes, quick turns yes, but, attackers were not detruded and getting ready to board. The water cannons were ready and the Capt had put out a MAYDAY. Fortunately it was picked up by a French frigate. The frigate deployed a helicopter gunship. It separated the attacker from Nautica and ……… just over the horizon, out of sight, a loud bang, black smoke, and the chopper is seen flying back to the direction in came from. Today the life of a pirate is only……..”Ten Good Years”.


Thursday 26th February
We visited a stilted village of Kompong Phluk to visit a farm, saw a wedding and a funeral. Then it was on to the largest lake in SE Asia. Depending on the flood levels of the Mekong the lake fills or empties into the river for 6 months at a time with Himalayan melt. Beating to this seasonal rhythm the lake increases in area five-fold to over 5,000 square miles. The pumping of the water in and out of the heart of Cambodia maintains a rich level of nutrients enabling the lake to rank among the world ‘s richest fishing grounds. We took a boat ride on the lake and saw the floating village of Chong Kneas with 8000 inhabitants (mainly Vietnamese) who live a subsistence lifestyle without land ownership.

Wednesday 25th February
Toady is temple day! There were over 400 temple that acted as the community centers for, religion, administration, and commerce. They are constructed with a moot and three defensive walls and the temple in the center. In the morning we visited the best known Angkor Wat. At mid day we head back to the hotel for lunch and stay out of the heat, 100’F with 99% humidity. At 3 PM it’s back to the second temple Angkor Thom. In the 12C it was the largest city in the world with more than a million inhabitants and rules over an empire covering most of SE Asia. The city walls is 8m high and stretches for 12mk broken only by five 23m high gates.
About Cambodia
Cambodia was the central power in Southeast Asia between 150 BC and about 1600. The French colonized Cambodia for about 150 years ending in 1953. English is the main second language but you can still see the French influence in the architecture of the older buildings. It is a little strange but Cambodians are very friendly, inquisitive, like Americans and dislike the French for destroying their country. Ten years under Chmer Rouge tyranny tends to rewrite the history of the 1960s. It was located on the coastal trade route between China and India. Ships had to stop for several months in Cambodia waiting for trade winds to changes direction. The country was very fertile and had an excess of goods to trade, resulting in prosperity.

Tuesday 24th February
Yesterday we spent the day travelling from Fiji to Sidney to Bangkok………… a long day.
We ended at the new Bangkok Airport Sofitel Hotel for the night. This morring we headed over to the airport which is a large, no…… very large, high end, duty free, shopping mall.
We then boarded Thi Air for the one hour flight to the Kingdom of Cambodia. After landing at the Siem Reap airport we checked into the La Resdence d’Angkor. A small but spectatular hotel operated by Orient-Expess Hotels and located in downtown Siem Reap. After dinner we walked around the city in the open air markets and enjoyed the local ambience.
The Angkor adventure starts tomorrow!
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Fiji Postscripts
Many of Fiji’s island are very remote and poor. They may not see outsiders for months and have no services. We visited one such location on the north end of the chain with only five families. We saw grass hut, open fires, no electricity, no school, and no medical facility. We met with the chief and left basics like salt, flour, biscuits, cooking fuel, pots and five large bag of cloths.
Fiji Postscripts
About Recreactional Drugs
Fiji like every society has a favourate recreational drug.
It is called Cava. It comes from the root of the Cava Shrub. It is a common house gift when visiting friends for dinner……….. like gifing a bottle of wine. The whole shrub is given wrapped in news paper. It is prepared by grinding the root and cooking it in hot water like tea but the effect is a cross between boozy and pot. At the closing night Lava it was prepared at the cew’s party and samples offered to adventureous guests. Fiji exports a lot of Cava to Germany but it is a baned substance in Nort America due to liver damage.
Monday, February 23, 2009
Friday 20th
Well our Fiji voyage is approaching it’s finally with a visit to Blue Lagoon Cruises private island Nanuyain located in the Yasawa Group. If you are a beach lover or water enthusiast this is place to spend the last day. Scuba, reef diving, fish feeding……no sharks, sun, a beautiful beach and a Lovo feast prepared in an underground oven. Oh yes the Capt. will even do a sunset wedding.
Thursday 19th
Today’s adventure is the Island of Rabi off the south eastern coast of Vanua Levu. Rabi doesn’t have a resort, a hotel, a restaurant or anything resembling tourism infrastructure. The islanders were displace to Rabi when phosphate mining began in 1900 on Ocean Island in the Gilberts and Ellis Islands Colony some 1600 miles away. We toured a local school of about 3000 K to 8 students. The students put on a spectacular native dance demonstration. Sugar cane is the big cash crop but it was copra but now many of the citizens live on the former coconut plantati0ons.
About Cruising in Fiji
Endless beauty, 364 islands, beautiful beaches, 1000 of anchorages, lots of navigational aids……..paradise……. but big isolation, not services, no charter boats and very little shipping traffic. Blue Lagoon Cruises is the only way to go and it is in style.
Wednesday 18th Feb
Today we visited Taveuni, the third largest island. It’s inhabitants were feared throughout the Fiji group as fierce warriors who relished the taste of human flesh. We visited the 180th meridian close to the town of Waiyevo before heading to Wiriki Catholic Mission, an orphanage and boarding school set on a hill over looking the Somosom Strait. The church was built in 1907 of stone and glass, the church with on pews has survived all hurricanes……….. “a miracle”.
This afternoon we visited Kioa Island. Since 1946, when it was purchased by the Ellis Islands, it has been the home to 300 Polynesians from Vaitupu Island who faced over population on their own home island. They have a form of self government with compulsorily civil service for age 16 to 49. Sixteen council elders act a judiciary and administrative leaders. All have schooling and health care in a clean orderly environment….…….unlike adjacent islands. The locals came out to meet the ship in outrigger canoes. We had a guided village tour and traditional Polynesian entertainment. Then local crafts………..placemats for all next Christmas!
About Fiji Time
Not only is this the home of the 180th time meridian but like the Caribbean has a form of “island time”. It is not just about being late…… it can be early or….. not at all. Example; yesterday we arrived on the beach at 10 am for the 9am swim only to find it was going to be the 11 am bus tour but no bus arrangements had been confirmed. After two hour and some rain all was cancelled and we returned to the ship for 11 am morning tea to be served 1pm lunch. Believe me it get better!
Tuesday 17th Feb
The next day we sailed to Levuka, nestled at the base of a steep bluff on Ovalau’s south-east coast. It is well off the beaten tourist track with weatherworn clapboard building, narrow streets and friendly residents. Ovalau was the original capital of Fiji until it was moved to the deep water port of Lautoka. We visited the first, post office, bank (Bank of New Zealand) and the first newspaper called what else but ………..The Fiji Times, founded in 1869. The stop was not complete without a visit to Ovalau Club, the local drinking club. There was a first Masonic Lodge 1879 but the locals sacked and burned it in the rebellion of 2003. Yes that is correct 2003. A force of 300 strong Methodists lead by their minister had identified it as the home of Devil.
About the Ship
The m/v Fiji Princess is a 200 foot cat and was built in France 1997 as a ferry. Her life as a ferry in France was a short one because the owner would not take delivery. She was not able to meet design speed specs of 25 knots. She ended up in the South Pacific due to a “fire sale”. Her displacement is 500 tons. The two 1000 HP MTU diesels let her cruising speed is 10.5 knots with a top speed of 18 knots. Fuel consumption is 80 gallons per hour. She has 34 double cabins with a great open air layout on the two upper deck. There is, of course, Sky Lounge deck